All roads in Gozo lead to the capital, ir-Rabat , and, rising above it, the fortified Citadel. Ir-Rabat (Victoria) is not just the geographic centre of Gozo, but also the centre of its commercial, social and cultural life – as well as its history. The town combines the bustle of the market with a relaxed and sociable atmosphere – particularly in the main square, officially called Independence Square but known to all as It-Tokk.

Events are always unfolding, with concerts and exhibitions held alongside some less likely attractions including fully-staged Italian opera in the island’s two theatres and the traditional horse racing in the main streets, in summer.