Baroque architecture, sacred art, trompe-l’œil dome, marble tombstone floor, and living tradition.
The Citadel in Gozo is one of the significant landmarks. Rising in the heart of the island, the sentinel perched high overlooking the villages, as a mother hen roosting over her cluster of chickens beats to the rhythm of the Cathedral. Exploring the Citadel cannot be complete without a visit to the Cathedral.
As soon as you walk through the Citadel gate, you are captivated by the majestic view of the expansive staircase leading up to the Cathedral door. Built like an anchoring structure to the square, the Cathedral, with the sacristy to its left, is flanked further by the Bishop’s Palace, which, in turn, faces the Courts of Justice and the Governor’s Palace on the other side of the square. The piazza evokes a scene of days gone by, complete with the occasional alley cat that saunters around the buildings, behind and on the ledges of the stone-balconied piazza. This spellbinding view is a delight during the day, when the blue skies above contrast with the golden tones of the limestone, but later in the day, when shadows become more pronounced, a more mysterious vibe descends, bringing to life the echoes of past centuries. There are many photo opportunities in this space, especially if one checks out the path atop the bastions, which serves as a balcony overlooking the square.
The Cathedral of Gozo, dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, stands high at the top of an impressive flight of steps, overlooking the charming old piazza. The current cathedral is not the original church, but it is a Baroque structure, completed in 1711 on the design of the Maltese architect Lorenzo Gafa, and it was rebuilt after the earthquakes that shook the island. Elegant stonework, Corinthian columns, and sculpted decorations contribute to the impressive exterior, which is further complemented by two statues of Pope Pius IX and Pope John Paul II. This church is the mother church of all other churches in Gozo and, as the seat of the Bishop of Gozo, it plays a central role in Gozo’s religious and cultural life.
Setting foot inside is like stepping into another world. If you’re lucky enough to visit during feast days, you will immediately feel the pomp and glory the place generates through elaborate and ornate decorations and vestments. On lesser days, especially during the quiet mornings, the Cathedral exudes the stillness of a church that silently holds to its heart many stories. Whatever the case, the spacious nave and the richly decorated altars and side chapels, each dedicated to different saints such as St Ursula, are presented in art as paintings and statues. One such treasure is the reliquary bust of St Ursula, dating back to 1614. Venerated as a protector of the island, St Ursola has played a significant role in the island’s history, especially during times of calamity. Beyond the many prestigious artistic works, one cannot overlook the choir and the titular altarpiece, crowned and framed by a solid silver cornice, and the presbytery or high altar inlaid with malachite, which further enhance the Cathedral’s artistic and devotional richness.
One cannot avoid stepping on the inlaid and ornate marble tombstones. At the Cathedral, these tombstones form an intriguing mosaic, each telling the tale of prominent families, Knights, and clergy through coat of arms, momento mori motifs, inscriptions, and Latin epitaphs. It is not only about wondering at the historical significance of this place, but it can also spark poignant reflections on death and remembrance.
If the sweeping encounter with the tombstones might be somewhat heavy, the moment lightens as soon as one lifts the gaze upwards. Admiring the elegant trompe-l’œil painted and installed in 1739 by the Sicilian artist Antonino Emanuele is part of the experience. Considered among the finest in Europe for its unique sense of realism, this masterpiece is an exercise in skilfully overcoming limitations and creating the illusion of a dome even when structurally none exists. As you scan this ingenious work, look out for the gecko on the windowpane – a playful and intriguing detail, almost like an Easter egg hidden in plain sight.
Without a doubt, one of the most beloved treasures at the Cathedral is the statue of Santa Marija, in her assumption into heaven. Her gaze, tenderly tilted towards the sky, radiates a serene grace and a quiet majesty, capturing a moment that feels otherworldly, literally suspended between earth and eternity. The statue is venerated in the first chapel of the north aisle. It dates back to 1897, and it was donated to the Cathedral Chapter by the Leone Philharmonic Society in 1956. Richly adorned as fits the queen of heaven, with gold-trimmed garments, and precious stones, the statue rests on a silver plinth. During the feast month of August, the statue is moved to the central nave and displayed beneath a royal blue, gold-embroidered canopy, adding to the splendour of the feast. However, the statue is best admired as it leaves the church for the procession on the 15th August, with a blue sky as a background, or when it reenters the Cathedral square amid fireworks, a salute, and the au flambeau ambience of hundreds of devotees.
A tour of the Gozo Cathedral does not offer the opportunity to visit the church alone. One can visit the Cathedral Museum by entering through the vestry. It is a chance to check out the silver vault, where, as can be expected, features ecclesiastical silverware, reliquaries and other treasures. Different levels of the museum (accessible via lift) include an area of history and memorabilia, and a picture gallery. There is also the Vault, featuring a notable collection of paintings.
Venturing up to the Citadel is a must while visiting Gozo, but it is likewise essential to drop by the Cathedral, as it is one sure way to understand the island’s many layers of faith, identity, communal life, and artistry. Whether your visit to this sacred space is bathed in light, shrouded in shadows or dressed in festa splendour, it always leaves the impression of having touched Gozo’s soul.
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