Long before the arrival of the Easter Bunny and the chocolate egg frenzy, Gozitan children grew up waiting eagerly for Easter Sunday for a far more traditional delight — the beloved figolli. These beautifully crafted almond-filled pastries, in various shapes, formed an essential part of the Easter repertoire on the island.  For many children, the small sacrifices made during Lent, especially giving up sweets, only heightened the excitement.  The thought of finally enjoying a figolla made the anticipation all the sweeter, turning Easter into not just a celebration, but a long-awaited reward steeped in tradition.

Figolli are more than just sweets, but they are a symbol of celebration and the joy of Easter Sunday. Whether purchased from local confectioners or prepared at kitchen tables, figolli are like the family’s seal of the Easter season.   Even today, many still enjoy gathering around the kitchen table during the first days of the Easter holidays, hands dusted with flour, shaping dough and decorating each figolla with icing and chocolate eggs.

The Story of the Figolla

The sweet pastry that marks the season has been around for a number of centuries, and indeed Gozo’s own 18th-century linguist, historian and scholar, Gian Francesco Agius de Soldanis, documents the figolli in his Damma dictionary.   There is no doubt that figolli are originally of Sicilian origin, and even the name itself points in that direction.  In his writings, the traditional figolla was a pastry in the shape of a man or woman, handed out to children to be eaten on Easter Sunday.   One particular note by Agius de Soldanis is that the figures were designed to hold a hard-boiled egg.  Since then, figolli has evolved in many sweet ways.

The Basic Recipe: Dough and Filling

If you intend to prepare your figolla, it is important to note that, whatever recipe you pick, preparing figolli is one kitchen endeavour that requires time and some preparation for success.   The basic recipe for this sweet involves preparing two mixes.

The first mix involves making the sweet dough.   This typical sweet pastry biscuit is enriched with the flavours of Gozo’s lemons and oranges.   Once prepared, the dough is left to rest (typically overnight). The second mix is a sweet paste made from pure almond, sugar, lemon zest, egg whites and vanilla essence. Some recipes also call for orange blossom water.

The recipe is an explosion of Mediterranean flavours, where the bright zest of lemon is paired with the rich, smooth sweetness of almonds.  It is a nod to perfectly fusing what was available on the island in centuries past.  At this time of the year, the blossoming almond trees delicately announce the arrival of spring. There’s something timeless in this sight. It is not only about renewal and changing seasons but also about history. The almond tree itself was introduced to Malta from the Middle East over a thousand years ago, becoming not only part of the rural landscape but also an essential ingredient in some of the island’s most cherished recipes.

When both mixes are ready and the dough has settled, it is time to roll it out to the desired size. Typical figolli cutters (similar to cookie cutters but bigger) are used to cut two layers.   The filling is spread over the base layer, and once this is done, the second dough layer is placed on top, sandwiching the filling. The sides are sealed with water, and the next step is to bake in a medium-hot oven for about 30 minutes. Once cooled completely, the figolli are ready to be decorated to one’s desire with icing sugar, chocolate or both.

From Icing to Art: Figolli at Their Finest

Maybe the most enjoyable part of preparing figolli is the decorating step.    Typically, the first task is to cover the top layer of the figolli with glace icing (a mix of icing sugar, water and almond essence) or melted chocolate to seal its freshness.  Some artisanal bakers opt for fondant icing as this provides a smoother base and finish. Once this is done, one can then pipe, drizzle, or even paint the figolli.

Most commercially prepared figolli are covered with a layer of chocolate and piped with colourful, bright royal icing inside and around the edges. Bakeries and confectioneries have their own signature when it comes to decorating figolli, and the final result will show how fluent and skilful they are with their piping bags.  Artistic piping is time-consuming, and you will find many figolli which have simply been drizzled with the sugar sprinkles and confetti.

Artisanal and gourmet bakers, and renowned pâtissiers, often come up with super polished versions that are sometimes closer to a work of art than mere sweets of the season.  Indeed, cutting through such creations can bring up a pang, but once the eyes have feasted on the design, it is ultimately time to bite into it, as figolli are meant to be enjoyed!

The cherry on the cake of any figolla is the chocolate easter egg that is affixed to it.

From Mermaids to Lambs: The Many Faces of Figolli

Historically, figolli started out as human-shaped sweets. Today, they are available in many shapes, whether homemade or commercial. These shapes reflect the readily available cookie cutters.   The top favourite shapes are today butterflies, lambs, ducks, hearts, rabbits and fish, along with guitars and even car-shaped ones.

Some confectioners still prepare traditional mermaid-shaped figolli, complete with a paper face of a blonde girl with blue eyes and long yellow hair, in an illustrated style. Others opt for more creativity and go to the next level, creating customised shapes and unique templates for their figolli.   The size of the figolli is naturally determined by the cookie cutter’s size, but today figolli are also available in bite-sized portions as simple, small, circular or oval-shaped sweets, just perfect for solo indulgence, typically called mini-figolli or figollini.

Workshops, Markets, and Artisanal Treats

Preparing figolli is a truly enjoyable task that even children can enjoy.   Some places offer workshops covering the full process of preparing figolli.    Buying figolli at Easter time is easy. Supermarkets, corner shops, bakeries, confectioners, all have them, as do community parish centres, which commonly sell Easter figolli as a fundraising activity.

Some locals will order from specific home bakers or artisanal creators who specialise in preparing unique concoctions.  In recent years, we have seen new ideas emerge, such as pistachio or Nutella fillings, and moving from traditional to healthier, gluten-free, and vegan variations.

One important detail to note when buying figolli is the quality of the ingredients.  A traditional genuine figolla has a filling of pure almond mix.  Over time, however, some producers introduced substitutes, a shift that, while more economical, alters the true character and taste of this beloved Easter sweet.

For more sweet indulgences, Easter is also the time for kwareżimal (a spicy Lenten biscuit), karamelli tal-ħarrub (carob syrup sweets) and Easter eggs.   Figolli are a lovely easter gift and a traditional table-centre piece in many families at Easter time. They are a timeless treat to be enjoyed and shared, as every bite carries the generational love and nostalgia.