Many times, visitors to the island of Gozo are pleasantly surprised by the variety of scenes that the island offers.  Sometimes curious in quiet mystery or contrasts, sometimes too ancient to be revealed completely, sometimes too rich to believe that they stand on an island, of such a modest size, the artefacts or landmarks have given Gozo a unique character.  Like a mosaic, each tesserae hums with its own vibe, colour and story.

The Gozo saltpans are one such item.    Ancient in origin, salt pans date back to a time when salt harvesting in the Mediterranean region was a viable industry.    Over the course of history, salt was highly valuable, at times even used as currency.   In Gozo, the saltpans that are splattered across some parts of the shoreline, with the largest swathe of saltpans being conglomerated between the coast of Xwejni and Wied il-Għasri, a scenic stretch of road that from Marsalforn leads to Żebbuġ.  The distinct geometric or grid-like pattern of the saltpans makes the location one of the most photographed areas and visited by tourists.   The area is also enjoyed by hikers and bikers who follow their route along this unique section of the island’s northern coast.

Still operational and passed down in families from one generation to the next, the salt pans in Xwejni tell a story of heritage and tradition.   When you visit, you might catch sight of the salt harvesters at work.  These custodians of the saltpans are entrusted with the seasonal work of harvesting salt in summer, a task undertaken in harmony with nature.  Without the rays of the sun, evaporating the water and leaving the salt grain crystals behind, there is no harvest.  Salt is harvested manually with rakes and other traditional tools.    Once the season is over, these families are responsible for preserving the salt pans and undertaking essential repairs to counter erosion caused by wind and sea forces.

Other, less-known salt pans on the island of Gozo (no longer operational)  include those in Xatt l-Aħmar (at the limits of Mġarr https://visitgozo.com/itineraries/an-iconic-harbour-hike-make-sure-you-do-not-miss-out-on-the-highlights-of-mgarr-harbour/) and in Xlendi.  The cluster of saltpans at Xatt l-Aħmar lies very close to the swimming zone beneath the gaze of Fort Chambray.   On the other hand, the patchwork of saltpans on the promontory beneath the coastal tower of Xlendi, are located close to deep waters and justaxposed at the very edge, amid craggy terrain.   The rugged rocks makes these salt pans much less accessible than the Xwejni ones, but the scene is undoubtedly inspiring, with rectangular arrays that glisten and shimmer against the backdrop of deep blue and the distant high cliffs across the bay.

While all the above provide stunning sights, and one should at least aim to visit the salt pans at Xwejni, one cannot leave the island without taking home some salt as a souvenir.  Locally produced salt is mineral-rich, sustainable and eco-friendly.  Favourite by chefs, Gozo salt harvested from the Xwejni salt pans can be acquired in plastic bags, but is also available in artisanal packaging such as cloth bags and jars.  It is an authentic local product readily available from village markets, craft shops, and even the saltpan keepers.  In fact, when you’re out and about in Xwejni, watch out for the steps hewn out of the rock that lead up to the  store room – now turned shop –  that was cut out of the rock face.

For those who linger till late afternoon or those who happen to be there, the salt pans in Xwejni seem to become one with the fiery sunset.  As the sun dips, the still waters inside the salt pans become a myriad of tiny mirrors, casting a palette of crimson, gold, and amber and delivering one of the most striking natural spectacles the island offers at this hour.