Standing high on the north-western side of the island, embracing the whispers of the northern breeze or wind that prevails, the village of Żebbuġ might be considered one of the remote villages of the island.  Being ‘remote’ on an island like Gozo has its undeniable portion of scenic rural charm, and in the case of Żebbuġ, this means that countryside, hillocks and hills, valleys, coastal views and the dominating blue hues of the Mediterranean Sea always dominate a picture-perfect background.

Driving, hiking, or pedalling along the road leading up to the village is part of the attraction.  Getting to Żebbuġ can be done from Victoria along the road lined with the aqueducts, which then leads to Għasri enroute to Żebbuġ, or else by following the road behind the Citadel that leads to Wied Sara and eventually up the country road that leads to the village square.

There is no surprise in the meaning of the village name, as Żebbuġ in Maltese means olives or olive trees. This is a stark reminder that this area was renowned for the cultivated olive tree grooves.  The village is also a step away from the hamlet of Għasri, whose name is closely tied to the olive processing industry. In fact, Għasri literally means olive press; thus, it makes perfect sense to be next door to Żebbuġ!

In any case, human activity in the area dates back millennia. While certain zones of archaeological interest still need to be studied, historians point out that the flat-topped Ta’ Kuljat Hill, within the limits of Żebbuġ, is a Bronze-age settlement.    Żebbuġ’s antique heritage is like a historical tapestry that still needs to be dusted to yield a fuller picture of the area. One location is the Punic tombs at Ta’ Tutiet and several rock-cut caves. If you’re an avid explorer, make sure you don’t miss out on such points by checking out the Żebbuġ Heritage Trail, which takes the traveller on a voyage of discovery through the village.  The landmark trail formulated by the Żebbuġ Local Council and St. Mary Philharmonic Society features countryside areas like Tad-Dabrani Hill and Wied l-Infern, archaic remains in the area and more modern points of interest such as the Parish Priest House, St Mary’s Band Club, a World War II Air Raid Shelter at the entrance of the village, and Riħ id-Deheb Historical House. The latter is a historical house and museum (strictly by appointment) featuring diverse collections and a historic grotto beneath it.  The collections include antiques, an ethnographical and extensive art collection, showcasing leading 20th-century Maltese artists such as Edward Caruana Dingli, Esprit Barthet, Richard England, Gabriel Caruana, Harry Alden, and Josef Kalleya.  Riħ id-Deheb also features a natural grotto, formed millions of years ago, which is believed to have been used first as a chapel and later as a mill. The cave is recorded in the pastoral visit of Bishop Thomas Gargallo in 1582.

Once in the main square of Żebbuġ, you can gaze at the parish church, one of the oldest churches in Gozo.  In the annals of 1615, there is a reference to a chapel, later enlarged several times to serve the parish of Żebbuġ, which also happens to be one of the oldest parishes in Gozo, going back to 1688.  The church, which is dedicated to the Assumption of Mary, is unique on the island because its interiors have been extensively decorated with travertine. This honey-coloured stone deposit sourced from within the village, adds a unique touch.  Among the church decorations, such as the choir, baptistery, and confessional, all sculpted out of what the locals refer to as ‘marble’, the central altar featuring a sculpted chalice, loaves and grapes is considered a masterpiece of the Maltese sculptor Ronald Pisani.  The village celebrates its feast in August and is keen on other traditions, such as the Good Friday procession.

Żebbuġ is also home to the unique custom of crafting the “għażżiela,” an M-shaped pastry that symbolises Our Lady.  This devotional is used as a shield against lightning storms, to which the village is vulnerable in stormy weather.  This 350-year-old tradition began during the time of Parish Priest Dun Franġisk Vella when a family witnessed a miraculous “M” formation surrounded by light after a lightning strike. Being illiterate, they made the vision out of pastry and brought it to the priest, beginning the custom.

When it comes to dining, Żebbuġ offers some good options and the variety becomes even more diverse if one ropes in the restaurants in Qbajjar which is also part of the locality of Żebbuġ.   Taking one of the back routes of Żebbuġ is a coastal hike that eventually leads to the area of the Xwejni saltpans, Qbajjar and Marsalforn.

Whether you’re visiting the village or residing in one of the typical farmhouses for your Gozo holidays, Żebbuġ is a spellbinding location. The echoes of a mysterious past mingle with unique local traditions, and serenity graces every street, alley, and country lane.

Photos of Riħ id-Deheb Historic House courtesy of Riħ id-Deheb Historical House and Natural Grotto, Żebbuġ.