It wasn’t until Malta joined the European Union that the prospect of reopening the winery was reignited, and Anthony’s aspirations seemed more doable.    The highly regulated wine industry offered both a challenge and an opportunity to bring a product that was authentic and certified to the market. Furthermore, his travels with his wife abroad fuelled his vision that, like other countries, Gozo could also become known for its local wines.    A decade ago, premium local wines were scarcely available at restaurants, and Anthony wanted to change that too.

Eventually he took the plunge of reopening the family winery with his wife.  Armed only with a permit and a plot of land, he began his forays into the world of wines.  This journey was not easy, but he describes himself as a man in love with challenges.    He chuckles as he says that those around him say he is ‘stubborn’, a characteristic which seems to have helped in this adventure.

In 2004, they planted the new vines in Għarb and Anthony enrolled in viticulture and oenology courses to round up all the knowledge needed.   Under the guidance of his mentor, Roger Aquilina, he transitioned from the traditional methods of making wines to understanding yeast, fermentation and the complexities of crafting fine wines.   As the business took root, a new cantina was built, and equipment was purchased bit by bit.  By 2008, the vines yielded the first harvest, and by the end of 2009, Tal-Massar Winery had the first wines ready for the market.    However, the timing was far from ideal, and the global economic crisis made it difficult to break into the market.   Local restaurants hesitated to embrace a local premium wine that was more expensive than the foreign imported bottles.  Refusing to feel gridlocked, Anthony turned his sight to wine tours and wine-tasting events at his vineyard.    He also navigated the situation by lowering the volume of wine produced and focusing on quality, aiming for superior wines with concentrations of tannins, flavours and aromas.   This decision paid off when, in 2011, Tal-Massar Winery won its first competition in Bordeaux, France.  Naturally, this served as a springboard as the winery attracted more visitors and subsequently Anthony also decided to target individual travellers and smaller groups, building the business on the power of personal recommendations and reviews.

Behind the scenes work at the winery never stops.   Constant care is needed, and Anthony explains about ploughing, tending to five kilometres of vines, taking care of the land without the use of herbicides, mulching, and even rebuilding the rubble wall that lines the fields.    In his own words, it is an all-year-round labour of love.

Hard work pays off, as Tal-Massar Winery’s story shows.  The winery now has five varieties of premium wine, and this year, they have produced 25,000 bottles of wine!   Their white wine mixes Vermentino and Chardonnay; the rose’ is a concoction of San Giovese, Syrah and Primitivo.    The red wine is based on San Giovese, Nero D’Avola and other secret grape varieties.  To this, one has to add the fortified port wine, a special Nero D’Avola dessert wine and the black Passito.

When asked about his favourite wine, Anthony quickly answers that this depends on what he’s eating, as wine can never be enjoyed without the food.   The winery’s motto, “Nulli Secundus,” meaning second to none, reflects Anthony and his family’s pride in their job as they remain dedicated to producing high-quality wines.

This feeling is also reflected in his description of the visitor’s experience at the winery.  The winery opens its doors after Easter, and once visitors arrive, they are welcomed by Anthony, his wife or son, as this offers a personal connection to the family.  Every season, visitors have the opportunity to appreciate life at the winery.  All the family takes pride in providing visitors with explanations and detailed information ranging from soils and vines to climate and Gozo’s history of wine.   Ultimately, the tour’s culmination is the tasting session, where local delicacies consisting of a cheese platter, bread, sundried tomatoes and olive oil are presented with abundant premium wines that Tal-Massar is known for.  The best time to visit is during the mid-seasons (April to May or mid-September to November) when the balmy weather offers a pleasant experience without the intense summer heat.  The winery closes off in November and the family focuses on preparing festive hampers.

Reflecting on his path in the world of wine, Anthony is adamant about the significance of wine for Gozo.  With its smooth seasonal transitions, Gozo’s stable climate offers excellent vine growth conditions.  Furthermore, from an environmental perspective, vineyards are part of Gozo’s sustainable agriculture, and vineyards also keep the island green during the hot summers.   From a historical perspective, Gozo’s ancient wine culture stretches back to the times of the Phoenicians, and Anthony explains that in Għarb and San Lawrenz, there is possibly the relic of the world’s oldest wine press.   Naturally, the DOK and IGT wine labels have helped to extrapolate the local industry to European levels.  He highlights that while the certification ensures that the minimum quality standards have been reached, these labels are also crucial in branding the Gozitan product.

Today, as Anthony leads Tal-Massar Winery into the future, he dreams of a time when Gozo will be home to more wineries.   A hundred years ago, Gozo had over 60 wineries. Creating a cluster of wineries would open a new niche’ by turning the island into a wine hub.   Meanwhile, Anthony welcomes competition and believes more agricultural land should be devoted to vines.

From his childhood dream to what Tal-Massar Winery stands for today, Anthony has been through a lot of challenges, but he also had a good share of proud moments.  His determination, passion, and persistence in producing sought-after wines that today are enjoyed in Michelin-starred restaurants have paid off.   Winning medals, expanding his business and seeing the fruits of his labour appreciated by many are all high points.    This year’s record of the number of visitors at the vineyard is yet another milestone in a journey that, for Anthony, is far from over.

VisitGozo would like to thank Mr Anthony Hili, of Tal-Massar Winery for this interview. Photos are from TripAdvisor.