Lying in the middle of the countryside but close to the coast, the village of Saint Lawrence is a hidden gem among the island’s smaller communities.  Here, where land meets sea, San Lawrenz is a charming village to discover along its winding lanes and streets lined with limestone houses, all set in timeless tranquillity.

Neighbouring one of Gozo’s oldest villages, Għarb, San Lawrenz is a village that derives its namesake from its patron saint.  Historians believe that the roots of the place name can be traced back as far as 1551, when the area was known as Ta’ Ciangura, probably a direct reference to a family nickname.  Today, San Lawrenz is home to just over 700 inhabitants. The village became a separate parish from Għarb in the latter decade of the nineteenth century.  To date, it still radiates the serene and unhurried pace that is the essence of the quintessential traditional Gozitan village.

The identity of the village is significantly marked by its namesake, the deacon and martyr Saint Lawrence of Rome, a direct reflection of the devotion to the saint on the island.  In fact, the name can be traced back to the church at Ta’ Ciangura that was dedicated to this saint. The village’s emblem is an iron grid graced with two palm fronds, a direct reference to the martyrdom of the saint who was burned alive in the third century.  The village celebrates the feast of Saint Lawrence on one of the first Sundays of August, aligning as closely as possible with the liturgical feast that falls on August 10.

August is associated with the Perseid meteor showers, which have traditionally been referred to as “The Tears of Saint Lawrence”, referencing the myth that the shooting stars witnessed during this period are the saint’s tears falling from heaven, recalling his martyrdom in 258 AD. When juxtaposed against the village of San Lawrence, all this becomes a blend of astronomy and legend, as coincidentally, one of the best places to watch the Perseids meteor shower is Dwejra, which is part of the village.  Away from city lights, the vast summer sky opens up in every direction.  On warm August nights, astronomy lovers cannot miss the opportunity to camp out and watch the celestial show above one of Malta’s most dramatic coastlines.  During the rest of the year, Dwejra is still a prime spot for stargazing.

The baroque church dates back to 1886, when the parish priest in Għarb recognised the needs of a growing community and sought to build a larger church.  The new church, with its honey-coloured façade, elegant pilasters, and central bell tower, exudes a balanced picture-perfect backdrop to the square.  Although it is one of the smaller churches on the island, it still features notable artworks such as the main altarpiece depicting St Lawrence the Martyr, painted by Giuseppe Calì, one of Malta’s leading 19th-century artists.

A unique attraction in the area is the Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts village.  Sprawling beneath the Ta’ Dbiegi Hill, the highest point of the island of Gozo, is a typical collection of artisans who operate from their workshops. Handcrafted items, including Gozitan lace, pottery, mosaics, metal art, glass ornaments, leatherwork, and jewellery, are available for sale.  One can meet the artisans and watch them at work, acquire gifts, and even join workshops at times.  At Ta’ Dbiegi Crafts village, one can also find typical Gozitan gourmet foods, such as olive oil, cheeselets, and Gozo honey.

When it comes to nature and scenic spots, San Lawrenz is difficult to beat. The hallmark is the dramatic coastal area of Dwejra. The Blue Hole at Dwejra is a top diving site, and the Inland Sea is a unique swimming spot, from where one can also go for a boat ride through the tunnel that connects the Inland Sea to the outer waters.  Dwejra’s breathtaking scenery has also made it a cherished destination for weddings.

Hiking around Dwejra is about discovering peaceful trails along the rugged coast, with views of   Fungus Rock (Il-Ġebla tal-Ġeneral) and the partially submerged Crocodile Rock (resembling a crocodile’s snout above water), which lead to Dwejra Bay.  Similar to the Blue Hole, this bay was formed as a sinkhole and features an old slipway.  Today, it is a prime anchorage point sought because of the sublime views that the spot offers.  In the same area also lies the Dwejra tower, a restored 17th-century coastal watchtower with panoramic views. Further inland lies the countryside, with terraced fields and valley views that extend to the village of Gharb.

A visit to the village is a must for photography, geology and nature enthusiasts. The spectacle at Dwejra is always unforgettable, regardless of the weather, but becomes utterly magical at sunset. Likewise, the area is dotted with diving spots, and Dwejra has been a mecca for divers ever since Jacques-Yves Cousteau, the famous French oceanographer, explored the rich underwater landscapes in the 1960s and 1970s.

For those who wish to experience the village ambience to the full, staying at San Lawrenz cannot be easier.  Apart from self-catering apartments and farmhouses, one can also opt for a B&B experience or the luxury of a five-star hotel that comes complete with upscale dining and spa.

As San Lawrenz preserves the vibe of tradition laden with countryside and coastal charm, it holds a diversity of attractions – history, culture, crafts, natural beauty, diving, and astronomy – that intertwine to create an authentic Gozitan ambience distinct from more touristy spots.  Whether you’re exploring the village on a day trip or planning a longer stay, this is an unforgettable and quiet escape.

Feast photos thanks to Festa San Lawrenz